Granny's Blanket

There is only one other knitter in Zach's family: his grandmother, whom I was able to meet only a few times, unfortunately.  Between all the stories I've heard from the family, she seemed to have been a pretty incredible lady.  Among her many talents, she also knit and crocheted.  So, when the family was cleaning out her things a few years ago, they set aside her knitting and crocheting stuff for me to sort through.  Stored in with all her needles and yarns were patterns and pattern notes that she'd made.  One of these was the blanket that she made for Zach and his siblings and cousins.  Not that it was one blanket, of course; she used the same pattern in different yarns to make a blanket for each of her grandchildren.  Zach still has his, and we use it all the time.  

When my brother-in-law and his wife became pregnant, I wanted to carry on the tradition and make blankets for the new arrivals.  Of course, it turned out to be twins and I had two blankets to make!  And yes, I know that the twins enter kindergarten this year, but I'm finishing the blankets up, and finally got around to typing up Granny's notes as well.  And hey, I got the blankets made before the kiddos were in college, right?  :)

My versions of the blanket (the grey and light blue) are raveled here and here.  The bright blue one in the picture below is Zach's.

Granny's Blanket

(a.k.a Zach's Blanket or The Family Blanket)

Materials:

• Approximately 4100yds of worsted weight yarn. I used just under 5 skeins of Caron One Pound (yes, I just weighed Zach's blanket to calculate how much I would need - his blanket weighed 5lbs).  I stuck with acrylic, like his blanket, since this is to be a blanket the kiddos grow up with, so needs to be heavy-duty and easy to wash.
• Size US 8 needles
• Cable needle
• Crochet hook and/or Tapestry needle for finishing and adding tassels

Optional Materials:

• Stitch markers
• Row counter

Gauge:

16 stitches = 4 inches (gauge isn't all that important, though)

Directions:

These blankets are full, adult-size blankets, not baby blankets, so although the pattern is straight-forward, these aren't quick projects, just based on the sheer size.  The blanket itself is constructed as a series of panels, then seamed together.  Think stitching a bunch of scarves together to form a blanket.  It seems to be a pretty common blanket-making technique, actually, and I've seen similar other patterns around.  This is just the version I got from Granny's notes (with any gaps filled by studying Zach's blanket).

Panels:

Cast on 42 st.

The pattern across the rows will be as follows:

• 2 stitches garter stitch
• 2 st st
• 2 rev st st
• 6 st cable (3 st twist over 3) - cable twist every 8th row
• 2 rev st st
• 2 st st
• 2 rev st st
• 6 st cable (3 st twist over 3) - cable twist every  8th row
• 2 rev st st
• 2 st st
• 2 rev st st
• 6 st cable (3 st twist over 3) - cable twist every  8th row
• 2 rev st st
• 2 st st
• 2 stitches garter stitch

Rows 1-7 - knit in pattern (just knits and purls)

Row 8 - cable row  (I did the cable as a left-leaning twist, but it's really not that important - if you prefer to twist right, that's up to you).

Repeat Rows 1-8 forty-eight (48) times, then 1-7 one (1) more time.  Your panel will have a total of 48 twists, plus a little on the end.

Bind off.

Make 7 panels altogether.

Charts:
 

 Charts created (for free!) on Chart Minder

 
Finishing:

You will seam the panels together to form one blanket out of the 7 scarves you've made.

I used a crochet seam instead of mattress-stitching the panels together because, quite frankly, these are full-length blankets and that's a lot of very long seams (you can see below in the picture). The crochet seam was just a lot easier to back up a stitch or two if I made a mistake :)

Add tassels or fringe, as desired.

For the fringe on these blankets, I cut five lengths of yarn per tassel, and then used a lark's head knot to attach them to the blanket, pulling the clumps of yarn through the edge of the blanket with a crochet hook.  Each panel had about 7 tassels.  In Granny's blanket, she used an overhand knot to secure the tassels.  Personal preference - I just think the lark's head looks neater, but both knots will keep the fringe secure.

Notes, Thoughts and Ramblings:

The stitch markers you can see clipped to the blanket panel in the picture below were marking out every 6th cable repeat - helped me keep track of how far along I was without having to count all the way from the beginning.  It also made seaming a little easier, because I had a landmark to match up between panels.  (I was very excited in this picture.  I'd just finished the first panel.  Yes, I know I still had 6 more to go.  And then another 7 in the second blanket after that.  But I'd finished the first one!)

In my head, I broke up the pattern into 7 sets of 6 stitches - 6 border stitches, 6 st cable, 3x2 little ribs 6 st cable, 3x2 little ribs, 6 st cable, 6 border stitches.  Breaking it up like that in my head made the rows seem even smaller, and helped me to remember the pattern as well.

Of course, no knitting project write-up is complete without a kitty picture :)

As always, the standard wording applies. Thanks very much for checking out my pattern. You are welcome to make any of my patterns for yourself, a friend, or charity, but please do not sell the finished product. If you would like to share the pattern, please do not sell it or try to pass my work off as your own. If you make one of the patterns, I would love to see pictures! Please consider sending me a picture, or letting me know on Ravelry (I’m oddbird26).

Row Counters - Part 2!

Part II!  Return of the Revenge of the Son of the Row Counter Post!  The Sequel!

Really, it's because I needed to break this into 2 posts, as it's so picture heavy.  :)  The other post this morning showcased the two easiest methods.  This post will start looking at more variations, and some of the styles that are a little more involved on the beading side.

On a chain:

Like it says, the beads are now chained :) For this and the variation in a ring (up next), it is up to you whether you want the rings numbered or not. I've seen some versions where the chain is just the jump rings and decorative beads, no numbers.  Other versions only had key numbers - 5 and 10, for example - with the rest being decorative beads.  I like seeing the numbers, being the visual person that I am, so my sample has the numbered beads.  With the rainbow colors, this kinda matches a set of stitch markers I have made (the first markers I made, actually!), which is another perk.

To make this style, it's like making 10 little stitch markers.  I used the 1 inch ring pins (not the head pins).  These are a little shorter than the pins I used with the plastic row counters, but the same shape.  Each pin was long enough for one colored bead and the number bead(s).  It's like making 10 little stitch markers, then linking them together.  To make them a chain, just open the ring on the end, and slide in the jump ring from the next numerical segment.  The biggest thing to look out for is that all the numbers are facing the same direction!  I used the ring pins for all 10 "mini markers" as I was calling them, including the one on the end, because then I could add a charm at the end, to give the chain a little weight.

To use this style, I have it hanging on the needle as a stitch marker.  As you move from row to row, you have to move the stitch markers from one needle to the other, right?  With this style row counter, each numbered link in the chain has a corresponding jump ring (the ring that made it a "mini marker").  As you move the counter from one needle to the next when you come to it, you slide the needle into the next link on the chain.  So, not in the #5 ring anymore, but #6.  I don't know if I'm explaining that incredibly clearly, but you can see it in use below, so maybe will help :)

 

Pros:  I like the visual of the numbers, as compared to the slider.  And the chain gives you a little more chance to play with some beading (i.e. it's pretty!).  It's also very easy to incorporate into the knitting project as another stitch marker. 

Cons:  The longer chain can be distracting as you get the knit piece started (once the piece is longer, though, it's easy to keep the chain from flopping about as I work).  Also, I wouldn't make this longer than 10 rows - too much longer would be VERY long and distracting.  Finally, if you have cats, be advised that the chain counter is rustle-y, shiny, and dangles, i.e., it is yet another part of your knitting which the cat will want to play with while sitting in your lap.  Scruffy had a whole new thing to learn "No, this is MY toy, not yours!"

Variation: Etsy had several of these where the chain had a detachable string of 10 beads, so that the beads could be used as a stand-alone 10 row counter, or used in conjunction with the chain to handle bigger charts. Muddy Paws Knit Knacks at Etsy is just one example. Very clever.

In a ring:

This is very similar to the chain-styled counter above, except that the 'mini markers' are looped on a larger ring.  The one I made is centered on a 12mm split ring (because I'm practical - it's what I had).  I've seen ones on Etsy and other shops that are on larger rings.  I guess it spreads out the numbers a little more, so better for visibility?  Haven't tried it out on a project yet...

You can see here the 'mini markers' I've been talking about (albeit, a little fuzzy - sorry, it looked clearer on the camera screen - really need to upgrade to a camera with a macro zoom!).  Each one is made with a small ring headpin with the decorative beads and the numbers, and looped onto a small jump ring (I used 9 mm, which fits up to US 8ish needles).  The No. 10 ring used a longer pin, because the extra digit took up a little more space. Then, you just open the ring on the end and attach the numbers to the larger center ring.  If you were making a chain row counter, you'd use the open end ring to attach the jump ring of the next number, remember?

Pros:  Again, actually being able to see the numbers is always a plus for me.  And, let's face it - it's pretty all spread out like a star burst like that :)

Cons:  It can be a little bulky as it hangs on the needle, but not too irritatingly so.  Rather a personal preference thing.  And even with the numbers in order on the ring, you have to look to make sure you're putting your needle into the correct number.

Variation:  Actually haven't seen variations on this one.  The biggest differences seem to be how big the center ring is and how decorative you want to be with the beads.

Up to 100 (well, 99) rows: for those really big charts you have to follow!

Inspired by the 99 Row Counters in PrettyKnittyJewelry's Etsy shop and using West End Design Knit's instructions as a starting point (particularly for the little marker rings), I've created something I'm relatively pleased with, for the next time I tackle a huge charted pattern. 

This is very similar to the concept of the chain marker.  For this particular style, though, you aren't making a chain, but a string.  It's easiest to use beading wire and crimp beads instead of the head pins.

Two strands of numbers hang down from the ring, one for the 10s and one for the 1s.  You move the small beaded rings up and down the lengths of numbers as you knit.  Reach 10 on the 1s strand, move the ring down one on the 10s strand.  And so on.

Pros:  It covers BIG charts.  Also, 2 strands = a chance for coordinated bead sets (hat and sweater, bunny and carrot, etc)... another "It's pretty" reason :)

Cons:  For handling large patterns, it's not as simple as the plastic counter above, but it does have a bit more "I did it myself" sort of pride, so I guess it balances out :)  Again, though, if you don't like long-and-dangling, this probably isn't one for you.  Also, making the little slider/marker thing takes a little practice.  Wire is a little easier to work with than elastic cord sometimes!

Variation: One Etsy shop (Crochata) didn't have her two stretches of beads hanging free. Her design had them looped on a small kilt pin. Very cute!

If you're feeling REALLY motivated, you could always try a row counters as a Bracelet, like the one I used above for inspiration. I didn't attempt this one. I just really don't change bracelets, usually just wear my running one, my one from Zach, and my watch. And having one specific bracelet for each project seemed counter-intuitive to my particular style of project organization (or lack thereof).  Really, it boils down to the fact that I need to keep the row counter with the project, not with me :) Still, I include it because there are some who prefer this style of row counter, and in addition, the directions here at Sutherland Studios were very clear for making the little elastic beaded marker rings.

A totally different style looks like a large Safety Pin, with beads that you move back and forth as you knit the row.  Cat Knits a Lot gives her directions.  It looks really pretty, and nice and simple, but I think I've found what works for me, and part of that is seeing the numbers!  But, it's another pretty idea, if you're looking for something different.

So after all this, what's my take?

I like seeing the numbers and I like a simple style that I can dress up.  Overall, my two favorite variations are shown below, hard at work :)  The one on the left counts the number of pattern repeats (in this case, cable twists), and the one on the right counts the row of the pattern I'm in.

DIY Knitting Toys - the Adventures continue!

Row Counters.

If you're unfamiliar with these, they are designed to help you keep track of where you are in the pattern when knitting, and where you left off when you put your project down and wandered off into the other room.  I'm usually good about noting my row when I put the project down at the end of the night, but if I'm just stepping away to get another cup of tea, for example, I'll admit I'm a little more forgetful.  Besides, it's always those "it'll be just a moment" moments that aren't just a moment!

These have worked their way into my Knitting Toys Queue because honestly, what's the point of having pretty jewelry on your knitting if your row counter is still boring and plastic or a post-it or whatever else.  And I'm really enjoying creating it for my knitting :) Must be my inner magpie coming out. Pretty shinies!

Even better, you can make sets of knitting jewelry, to match your stitch markers and your row counter! Whee - sets! Yes, I'm anal about this sort of thing; I love it when things match!

Searching through Etsy brought up tons of creative row counter ideas. I've been experimenting to see which I can re-create to my satisfaction, and what style I prefer using. Like always, if I've borrowed someone else's instructions as a starting point, I've referenced them as best I can. Otherwise, all directions and comments are the results of my own little fumblings, so enjoy!

The most basic - bead up a plastic counter!

You know, those ugly circular ones that are supposed to fit on your needles but never really do? Add some pretty shinies to make these more aesthetically pleasing, and in the process you're also adding a hook or a ring so that you can attach it as well.  The style on Etsy that I liked best had a ring on one end and a lobster claw clasp on the other. Meaning that you can use it either hanging from your needles or attached to the fabric itself (like in crochet). On mine (shown below) I have a larger ring on one end, and a lanyard clasp on the other, so I can clip it to a project or a needles or slide it onto the needle with a ring.

I inherited a handful of this style of row counter, and I like that they can count a large number of rows.  But... they are boring and ugly plastic, and I honestly have a hard time sometimes having these fit my needles, especially if the plastic is old and stiff.  So, between the ones I inherited and a pair I grabbed at Michael's when they were on clearance, I have a bunch to play with and see about different colors and styles I like.

You make these like the beaded stitch markers.  Instead of using head pins (like with the stitch markers), I like using the ones with the loop on the other end.  This gives me two ends to attach rings or clips to, giving me a little more freedom in how I want to use them. 

Something to think about with these, though:  The plastic row counters are big enough down the middle to fit over a needle.  This also means that they are bigger than smaller beads or seed beads.  These don't really fit against the opening, but slide through the center of the counter instead. 

To solve this, the easiest way I found to set it up on the pin: 

smallest bead, larger decorative bead, plastic counter, larger bead, smallest bead. 

This gives you enough on the end of the pin to wrap around the ring or the lanyard clip, as you would when making a stitch marker.  For the other end, open the loop at the end of the pin slightly using pliers, slide on the ring/clip, close the loop with the pliers again.  Ta-da!

And I have to say, I love the metallic beads I found (Wal-Mart!) and how well they match the purple row counter :)

Pros: Quick. Easy. Simple. Doesn't take up much space in the knitting bag or on the needles.  Those plastic counters typically count up to 100, so they are good for longer patterns or larger numbers of repeats.

Cons: Still have to deal with the ugly plastic marker (though they look much prettier all decorated - I really like my purple ones, because I found pretty beads to match!)

Variation: You can see one with just a ring on one end here at Something From Nothing.  Be sure to browse through her pictures, too, because her stitch markers are BEAUTIFUL!

Next: the Slider

Sarah brought this style to my attention, as I hadn't seen it before. One of her classmates at Stitches was using this type of marker, so Sarah decided to give it a try.

All you need for this one is a length of yarn (or string or ribbon), a ring (I used a small split ring), and a quantity of pony beads.  I used 10 pony beads, alternating colors with an accent color for #5 and #10.  If you want to make a longer counter, simply increase the number of beads on the yarn.

To make them, start with a doubled length of string/yarn/cord/ribbon attached to a ring in the middle.  A simple lark's head knot works perfectly.  Using both ends of the string, lace the first bead, passing the ends through the bead in opposite directions.   Leave yourself a little bit of slack in the string; you'll be moving the beads around on the string, after all.

Repeat your your next bead, crossing the threads back, again going in opposite directions.

Continue in this fashion until it's as long as you'd like.  I made mine 10 beads long, alternating colors.  Beads 5 and 10 are in a third color, to make them easier to see.

There's a pretty detailed set of instructions at Precision Teaching Hub and Wiki.  Those instructions are for knitting counters specifically, but just generic bead counters.  Doesn't matter though - the principles the same!

To use them, you slide the beads back and forth on the string.  It's kinda like a hanging mini-abacus.  Start with all the beads at the top (or bottom - your preference), then slide a bead to the bottom for each row knit.  When all 10 are at the bottom (or when your pattern repeat is complete, if it's shorter than 10 rows), move everything back to the top and start over.

Pros: Quick. Easy. Simple. Lightweight on your needles too.  And as you can see above, it doesn't take much in the way of supplies.

Cons: Personal preference, but I like seeing the number beads so that I can glance and see the row number. If that's not a problem for you, then this is a good style to consider.  Of course, you can make it a little fancier and use number beads and a finer string.  Seahorse Designs has some like that.  Lots of variations after all!

A variation I did find: Dhrmayarns on Etsy uses 2 different size jump rings at the top of the counter (the end you put the needle through). This is a nice little extra which means that you can fit your row counter on your needles a little better. Very clever!

Oh So Pinteresting Wednesday: Not quite sewn vest!

So, it's not sewing (not a single stitch) but I made a vest!  Just playing with fabric, really.  :)

 

Another idea I found on Pinterest.  There are several versions of the vest available on the web, so I'm not going to reprint all the instructions here.  The ones that I used the most were at Dried Figs and Wooden Spools, Behind the Seams and at S3w G33ky.  The method for all is summarized as:

• Buy jersey knit material.  I found mine on sale at Hobby Lobby, so in addition to being an easy craft, it was one on sale too!  I used a yard - made it a 45x36 in rectangle I was working with.
• Fold in half.
• Cut armholes at the location you want.  It helps to pin the pieces together to line the armholes up properly.  Dried Figs has some good pictures of the process, if you want a full visual tutorial.  I have broader shoulders than the examples I was working from, so my armholes were cut a little wider.  My armholes were approximately 10 inches long, located 6 inches down from the top of the material, and about 7 inches in from the fold (they are 15 inches apart in the final project)
• Wear!

Hmmmm....  So, apparently, I lied.  I did write up everything here.  It really is that easy!  

One of the other perks of this vest is that, being just a big rectangle (or square, if that's how you cut your material), is that it also acts as a lovely lightweight scarf.  We went up to Irving soon after we moved to TX for the Genghis Khan exhibit, and I wore the piece as a vest while we were out and about, but threw on a windbreaker and wore the piece as a scarf while we were inside the exhibit.  There was a Mongolian mummy among all the artifacts on display, so the exhibit had to be VERY well air conditioned (about 65 degrees!).  I really liked having the versatility in what I was wearing that day, because Texas in September is nowhere near 65! 

DIY Knitting Accessories: Yet another stitch marker post :)

Wire stitch markers this time!

Inspired by the winter stitch marker swap for Recycled/Repurposed Items, I felt inclined to give wrapped wire stitch markers a try.  I'd seen this post on wikiHow on how to make stitch markers (non-beaded) out of wire which is available on spools, with a little side note on how paper clips can also be used.  In an end of the year, office supply special, I found a box of brightly colored paper clips, so felt inclined to give it a try.  Personally, the paperclips are better than the wire spools, as they are very cheap, brightly colored (so therefore much more fun) and you don't have to deal with the hassle of cutting them.

So, here you go, my own little tutorial version.  I apologize for blurriness of some of the pictures - it's very hard getting my basic little point-and-click to focus that zoomed in, when the other hand is holding whatever I'm trying to get a picture of.  :\

Supplies...  Very simple.  About as simple as it gets :)

• Paperclips (obviously the metal kind)
• Pliers
• Large knitting needle

Directions

1.  Unfold paperclips. 

2.  As you can see above, just unfolding the paperclips does not yield a straight piece of wire, but a mostly straight one.  I took my pliers and GENTLY used them to straighten out the folds a little more.  I wanted the wire as straight as possible.

3.  Gripping the very end of the former paperclip in the pliers, wrap the wire closely around the tip of the pliers.  You are creating a curly-cue at the end of the wire.

4.  Repeat on the other end of the wire.  Try and make these curls as tight as possible.  The tighter they are, the less space there is for your yarn to snag on them.

5.  Using a large, solid knitting needle, wrap the paper clip around the needle to create the main 'loop' of the stitch marker.  Bring the curls together as you wrap it around the needle.  You want them relatively close, as this will help reduce snagging on the yarn when you use them. Try and center this fold between the curls at the ends of the paperclip - just helps to balance the marker as it hangs on the needle.  You want to use a needle several sizes larger than the size you want the markers to fit on (here, I used a US 15 needle, as I wanted my markers to fit on US 7-11ish needles)

6.  In all the wrapping and folding, the stitch marker may not lay flat.  If this bothers you (as it does me), take the pliers and GENTLY press the curls of the marker flat. 

7.  Tada!  Step back and marvel!  The needle the markers are hanging on in the picture below is a US 11.  As you can see, there is a nice amount of movement for the stitch markers on this size needle.  And remember, these are paperclips, so it's easy to bend them to adjust sizing as needed.

Adventures in Knitting DIY Toys, Pt 3!

Pattern Minders this time!

I kept seeing these on Etsy when I was browsing for other knitting ideas, but didn't find any directions on a Google search. I wanted the style where the magnets sandwich the page and keep in place that way. So much neater and more secure than Post-Its! Since I couldn't find directions from someone else, these instructions are entirely what I've figured out based on looking at pictures. I am proud of myself, even though this is really a simple pattern to figure out. :)

Supplies:

• Magnets
• Pretty Ribbon
• Superglue

I used 1/2 inch x 4 inch magnet strips from Wal-Mart. You get a bunch of them in packs for a dollar, so you've got plenty to play with. The other benefit to this particular magnet is that 4 inch strips work beautifully for 8.5 inch wide paper.

I found ribbon spools on sale at Michael's, but really any ribbon that you like will work. The ones I used first were a navy and gold celestial pattern, and a old font with "Remember" on it. I know that one is 'supposed' to be a scrapbooking ribbon, but I thought it was just too perfect for a pattern minder :)

The magnets I had were 1/2 inch wide, so they worked beautifully with the 5/8 inch wide ribbon. I think I would have had a little more trouble lining the ribbon and magnet up evenly if they had been exactly the same size.

There's really nothing to these, so here we go!

Directions:

Decide what size pattern minder you want to make. With the 4 inch lengths of magnet, you can easily make different sizes. Beyond multiples of 4 in the magnets, any other adjustments can be made in the amount of ribbon between sections of magnet. I wanted pattern minders for standard 8.5 inch sheet patterns, so that's what I was working with.

Cut a length of ribbon to the size you want. For my pattern minders, I cut lengths of ribbon of 20 1/2 inches. This makes them actually wider than 8.5 inches, but the little bit of extra ribbon acts as a bookmark as well, so I can find my pattern again when I close the book.

Leave a length of ribbon on each end to overlap the end of the magnet. I had about 1 1/2 inch of ribbon overlapping at each end. Besides making the end a little neater, this tucks the end of the ribbon out of the way and secures it, cutting down on fraying.

Overall, the lengths of ribbon total as follows:

1.5 + 8 + 1.5 + 8 + 1.5 = 20.5 inches
(overlap + magnets + ribbon at the fold around the page + magnets + overlap = total length)

Superglue the magnets in place. I know these particular magnets have a sticky side for attaching whatever to them, but I found that the glue wasn't quite strong enough for the use I was putting it to. Enter the superglue!

While supergluing it all down, make sure to glue between the magnet strips as well as to attach the ribbon. This makes joins the magnets together and makes it a single 8 inch stretch of magnet, instead of two 4 inch sections side by side. Cuts down on the wear as you're using it, since it's not folding and pulling at that midpoint.

Make sure all 4 magnets are glued into place. Let dry. I used small binder clips to keep the magnets secure as they were drying.

Ta da! I told you they were simple :)

I did find one example online, on Seabreeze Spinners. This one though, isn't what I was looking for. Very useful, but not all my patterns are copied out on loose sheets, and this style pattern minder wouldn't work as well with books. I also like my projects to be portable, even those with involved charts, and the white board isn't as portable. Still, if I get into very involved projects that I don't want to carry around or which have bigger charts, this is a pretty good idea. It's also nice that the "minder bar" is a ruler, so you can always check measurements easily.

Adventures in DIY Knitting Toys, Pt 2!

Beaded stitch markers! I'm not into beading so much for it's own sake (probably not gonna start making my own jewelry or anything - just don't wear enough) but there are a lot of cute little beads out there, and beaded markers are certainly SO much cuter than the plain little plastic rings. But rather than pay bunches of money for a set of 6, I'd rather learn how to do it myself and have plenty for gifts and swaps instead :)

3 styles:

For all 3 styles, I am giving you the website where I found the original instructions, and all my photos and comments. I claim no credit for any of these patterns, just my own notes, pictures and other clarification. I've included a lot of other blogs and websites which had instructions too, if you're looking for more clarification or more pictures for ideas. These folk all did wonderful jobs providing the original instructions, and deserve all the credit. I know there are more instructions out there (a quick Google search will turn up bunches), but these are the ones I used for reference and inspiration.

Ring

About as basic as you get :) Found instructions at Okay Knits blog, and a few more pictures at Knitting-Warehouse.

Open jump ring. Slide on bead. Close jump ring. Position bead over opening to jump ring and superglue in place. Ta da! About as simple as it gets :)

Practice on non-shiny or iridescent beads at first, because you don't see the superglue smears on the bead. Once you get more accurate with your superglue application (took me a couple times to not superglue the bead to my finger) the shiny beads are fine too.

Make sure the bead isn't too big or awkward for the size jump ring you're using. That's one I learned the hard way! This bead works alright, but if it had been this length but long and thin instead of round (for example), then it would have been harder positioning the bead.

Hanging

For these, I got most of my instruction and inspiration from Wormspit.com (a blogger who, as you might imagine, loves silk). Most of the instructions online use regular jump rings or split rings (like small key chain rings) but if you work with lots of snag-able yarns and want your rings snag-free, you can use soldered jump rings (available for sale - I found mine at Oriental Trading Comany, size 8mm, so they fit up to US 9 needles) or solder your jump rings closed when you are finished beading them. There are other patterns online for snag-free stitch markers, most using thread or beading wire and no jump ring at all, but my personal preference, just didn't like the look of those as much.

I was finding that it was easiest to wrap the wire by holding the marker with the needle-nose pliers close the jump ring and wrapping the wire with my finger. A thimble helped sometimes. Then switch hands and hold the jump ring and top of marker in my hand and press the end of the wire into place with the pliers. Trying to wrap the wire with the pliers like was shown in some of the directions online is probably easier on your fingers, but was a bit too fiddly for my level of expertise. Using a thimble and my finger was easier for me.

Yes, I made lots of carrot markers (there are 8 of each color, if you count) because I already have cute bunny markers which they coordinate well with (see the other picture?), and I have a Clapotis planned this year, which needs about 18 stitch markers to mark the dropped stitches. And let's be honest, I like things to match :) And since the carrot beads were about 25 for $1 on a post-Easter sale, I think I could splurge to make lots of little carrots for my bunnies. And an extra bonus, my Clapotis will be in a tonal shaded purple yarn, so the orange carrots will look lovely with the purple yarn!

Other examples:

• Shiny Knits at her blog
• YarnGarn at hers
  
• CJ's Knitting Basket also has lots of good pictures.
  
• About.com's knitting page.
  
• Lee Meredith at Threadbanger uses paperclips instead of jump rings and pins, if you're looking for a cheap alternative to jewelry findings.
• Loxosceles has a different way of attaching the beaded bit of wire to the jump ring, if you're looking for something different
  
• Susan Beal at Craftstylish even provided a video in her instructions.
  
• Another video (dealing with jump rings especially) is over at KnitSpirit, the blog of Raveler IvyR.
  
• The blog over at Spindle and Wheel has fancier ones than mine, if you're feeling motivated, or have lots of beads lying around.
• Stuff Knitters Want and Gotta Have (very appropriately named) has instructions on little beaded angels, and for making your own clay beads as well.
• For more inspiration, I also like the flowers shown here in Peggy Hazelwood's eHow article.
  

Removable

Knitting for Charity's website was the first one I saw which suggested using leverback earrings instead of a jump ring in order to have removable stitch markers. This makes a nice stitch marker for crochet or knitting, if you want to attach the marker to the stitch instead of the needles. As a bonus, though, these earrings are big enough for my smaller needles to slide through, so they can be used either way, really :) The beading part of this one is the same as above, just attaching to the earring piece, not to a jump ring. The downside to this style of marker is that the loop on the earring piece can be weaker, so if you apply too much force as you are wrapping the wire, you can pop that ring. On these, it can be pressed back into place and then secured with a bit of soldering, if you are a crafty house like ours and have a soldering iron of your own.

Other examples:

• HookandNeedles has very clear pictures of the finished stitch markers.
• CrochetMe does as well, but uses lobster claw clasps instead of the earring backs. Same idea, still nice and removable, I just liked the earrings instead - not quite as heavy :)
• Another removable option, shown here on Instructables, shows a different type of attachment (I think they called them S-hooks?)